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Scottish terrier

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Scottish terrier

Skotsk terrier.pdf

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Here I will share with you how I made my Scottish terrier, Buster.

Buster is roughly 30 cm long and 25 cm tall, but the final size is dependant on factors

such as the thickness of the yarn and what size hook you’ve used, so it might vary

somewhat.

I will say right off the bat that English isn’t my first language, so apologies for any

mistakes or weird phrasings…

I’m going to assume that you are familiar with basic (US) terms and how to make a

magic circle. If you don’t, try for instance YouTube, where you can find many useful

tutorials.

Required materials

Yarn. I used ca 140 g of acrylic yarn. You can use something else if you prefer,

just remember that cotton yarn doesn’t work as it can’t be brushed out. Just

about any acrylic or wool (or a mix with either of these) should work. It’s a

bonus if the yarn is soft and splits ends easily. The tighter it is spun, the harder

you will work at later stages.

Crochet hook. I used a size 3.5 mm. If needed, change size to suit your yarn of

choice. You shouldn’t see gaps in your work.

A suitable needle for sewing the parts together.

Filling. I buy cheap pillows aty IKEA and other stores and use their filling.

Safety nose and eyes, unless you want to embroider those details.

A slicker brush. You can find one in a pet store if needed – get a heavy duty

dog one, not a measly rabbit brush.

Patience. And lots of it.

The process

You can divide the making of Buster into four main parts. First off you will crochet all

body parts and assemble them. Next is to attach the fur, which in my opinion is the

most boring part. Last the fur will be brushed, clipped and styled. After that you’re

done!

Part 1: The body parts

Let’s get started! Time to crochet, and how. All parts are done in a continous spiral.

Make the following body parts:

Head

Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc

Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)

Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)

Row 4: [2 sc, 1 inc] around (24)

Row 5 – 14: sc around (24)

Row 15: [1 Inc] 6 times in a row (so first 6 sc = 12 sc), then 1 sc around (30)

Row 16: sc around (30)

Row 17: [1 inc] 6 times in a row, 1 sc around (36)

Row 18 – 25: sc around (36)

Row 26: [4 sc, Dec in next] around (30)

Row 27: [3 sc, Dec in next] around (24)

Row 28: [2 sc, Dec in next] around (18)

Now might be a good time to start adding the filling… and attach the eyes and nose,

if you’re using safety ones!

Row 29: [1 sc, Dec in next] around (12)

Row 30: Dec around, sew together the opening (after adding the last of the filling).

Leave a long tail.

The head should resemble an elongated thingie with a clear forehead (called a stop in

dog circles), marked as ”upp” here. Not unlike a misshapen baguette.

Ears (make 2)

Row 1: Make a magic circle of 4 sc (4)

Row 2: 1 sc, then Inc, repeat once (6)

Row 3: 2 sc, then Inc, repeat once (8)

Row 4: 3 sc, then Inc, repeat once (10)

Row 5: 4 sc, then Inc, repeat once (12)

Row 6: 5 sc, then Inc, repeat once (14)

Row 7: sc around (14)

Finish off, leaving long tail. Do not add filling.

The ears should be triangular, a bit elongated and flat.

Body

Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc

Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)

Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)

Row 4: [2 sc, 1 inc] around (24)

Row 5: [3 sc, 1 inc] around (30)

Row 6: [4 sc, 1 inc] around (36)

Row 7: [5 sc, 1 inc] around (42)

Row 8: [6 sc, 1 inc] around (48)

Row 9-15:sc around (48)

Row 16: Now we are going to Dec 1 by each row, always when starting a new row,

followed by sc around the rest. So row 16 will end with 47 sc, row 17 ends with 46 sc

etc. Continue doing this until…

Row 30: Dec 1, sc around (32)

Row 31: Stop decreasing! Sc around (32)

Row 32-46: sc around (32)

Row 47: 15 sc, Dec – repeat once (30)

Row 48: [3 sc, Dec] around (24)

Row 49: [2 sc, Dec] around (18)

Now might be a good time to add the filling.

Row 50: [1 sc, Dec] around (12)

Row 51: Dec around, add last of filling and sew together. Sew in tail.

You should now have an elongated shape with a clear ribcage. The thick end goes

towards the head (labelled ”huvud”) and the thin is the butt. The plane side is the

back and the angled is the underside.

Neck

Row 1: Chain 18, close with a sl st. Try to save a long tail (ie. start further down on

the yarn than you would otherwise).

Row 2-10: Inc 1 at start of every row, then sc around. So row 2 has 19 sc, row 3 has

20 etc. Do this until row 10 when you should have 27 sc. Finish off, saving long tail.

You should now have an elongated, slightly triangular tube. The thinner part goes to

the head (”upp”). The ”point” goes down towards the front of the chest (not the back

– ”rygg”).

Legs (make 4)

Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc

Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)

Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)

Row 4-19: sc around (18)

Add filling but save a bit of room at the top of each leg. Flatten and sew the opening

together. Leave a long tail.

Tail

Row 1: Make a magic circle of 4 sc (4)

Row 2: 1 sc, then Inc, repeat once (6)

Row 3: 2 sc, then Inc, repeat once (8)

Row 4: 3 sc, then Inc, repeat once (10)

Row 5: sc around (10)

Row 6: 4 sc, then Inc, repeat once (12)

Row 7-10: sc around (12)

tail.

Part 2: Assembly

Time to sew all the parts together!

For the neck – start with attaching the larger end to the body. Add filling. Now fold the

top end of the neck portion in a bit, so you will actually sew into the 2nd or 3rd row

rather than the first. This gives a bit of extra stability. Try to make the head–neck–

body transition as seamless as you can, it’s a bit tricky. Stop and check now and then

how it’s coming along.

The hind legs are angled back while the frontlegs are straight under the body.

Remember to put the frontlegs fairly far forward, a scotty shouldn’t have a lot of

forechest.

Make sure to attach all parts well! You will work hard when brushing out the fur and

it’s not fun if the parts start to fall off.

If you are going to embroider the nose and eyes, now is a good time. When I made

my Scotty I did this as the very last step and it was a total mess, the newly brushed

and trimmed fur did everything in its power to be in the way as I was working the

needle.

It should look something like this…

(translation: Spets = point, Smal = thin, Raka = Straight, Vinklade = angled)

Part 3: Attaching fur

Now it’s time to cut approx. 5 billion strands of yarn, each ca 7-10 cm long. I usually

fold the yarn so I can cut several strands at once – saving me time – and then attach

them before cutting new ones. Gives you a little bit of variation at least.

When attaching the strands, pull your crochet hook under a chosen stitch on your dog.

Now fold the strand into an U-shaped loop. Then use the crochet hook to pull the loop

under the stitch before pulling the yarn ends through the loop, securing it to the

stitch. It sounds a lot more complicated than it is!

Add a strand to every (or just about every. Most of them, at any rate) stitch on the

sides and undersides of the muzzle, as eyebrows, on the front side of the chest, on

the legs except the undersides and the underside of the body. Yes, it takes forever.

Put on a good movie (or five).

Part 4: Brushing and trimming

Go get your (potentially new and shiny) slicker brush and now brush all the attached

strands until they become beautifully fluffy and fur-like. Don’t be afraid to use hard

strokes, depending on your yarn it might take a while. The brush will collect some fluff

that you need to remove now and then, it can be saved as ultra soft filling if you wish.

(Don’t forget to protect the eyes and nose while using the brush close to them. The

brush can damage the plastic or your beautiful embroidened details)

The ”smooth” parts aren’t intended to be brushed. But feel free to do so if you want a

more ”ragged” look.

When you have brushed all the fur it’s time for the most fun part – time to play dog

groomer!

I recommend to start by googling some photos of Scottish terriers, to get an idea of

what it should look like. But in short form the beard so it has a nice gradual look

towards the skull, fix up the eyebrows a bit. Remove quite a bit from the frontchest, it

should have an almost straight line from the throat and down to the ground. Even the

legs out all around (don’t forget to check what they look like from below) but try to

leave the body fur long, just even it out. Keep alternating between brushing and

trimming until you’re satisfied.

Now your doggie is aaalmost done. But he deserves a collar, don’t you think? Thought

so.

I made mine using a cotton blend, to make it appear different from the coat. Pick a

suitable clour and do a chain of around 35 (double check to see if this fits your dog,

since it might be a different size from mine). Chain 2 extra, turn. Now hdc to the end.

Repeat once more (chain 2, turn, hdc to the end) or until you’re satisfied with the

width. Don’t forget to save a long tail.

Now take the colour for the ”ID-badge”. Do a magic circle of 6, then Inc around (12).

Finish with a sl st. Now chain 12 and then a sl st back into the badge, so you have a

nice little loop attachment.

Thread the collar through the loop, then put on the dog and sew the ends together.

NOW you are done! Congrats, you have made your very own Scotty!

 

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